Cordyline australis

full sun (6 or more hours of sun hitting the leaves per day. South-facing window, no obstructions. Under grow lights, keep them 4-8 inches away for 12-14 hours) to partial shade outdoors; at least 6 hours of direct sun (right in the window where sun actually hits the leaves. A strong grow light 4-6 inches away can substitute) brings out the best growth and color. Indoors, place as close to a bright south-facing window as possible - it does not tolerate low light (more than 8 feet from a window, or a north-facing room. A grow light 10-12 inches away works great if your windows are not cutting it) conditions well. Green-leaved varieties are more shade-tolerant than colorful-leaved cultivars.

Prefers moderate to high humidity (60-80%. Group your plants together, set them on a pebble tray with water, or run a humidifier nearby) indoors. Average household humidity is acceptable but a pebble tray or occasional misting (note: misting does not actually raise humidity meaningfully. A pebble tray or humidifier is more effective) helps, particularly during heated winters when indoor air dries out.

Sandy, airy, well-draining soil (equal parts potting soil, perlite, and orchid bark. The goal is soil that lets water flow through without staying soggy). Add perlite or coarse grit to a standard potting mix. Heavy or compacted soil encourages rot at the stem base. Fresh potting soil yearly typically provides adequate nutrients without supplemental fertilizer.

Spider mites are the main indoor pest, causing brown leaf spotting from sap-sucking. Root and stem base rot from overwatering or poorly drained soil. Frost-damaged plants can look dead but may regrow from the trunk in spring if the damage is not too severe - check for firmness before cutting back.